the Hiroshima Museum
Wandering around Hiroshima, you'd never know the city was
oblitered at the end of WWII, until you approach ground zero,
an island between two rivers where the familar skeleton of the
former City Hall stands. The museum is nearby, one of many features
in Peace Park, and I've heard a lot about it, so was curious to
visit -- unfortunately, I arrived with only about a half-hour until
closing, but there was enough time to dash through and take
some pictures.
One of the first displays you encounter are a couple of city models,
the center of town inside a ring, one before and one after. A little
red ball is suspended above after's ground zero. I didn't snap a worthy
enough photo of these, but wanted to include a detail to show City
Hall (and its neighborhood) as it appeared before. Now, on local maps,
its designation is simply Atom Bomb Dome. Peace Park fills the island
in front of it, across the river.
The museum has a couple of tactile displays which observers are
invited to touch -- ceramic roof tiles, their glaze rendered bubbly
from the heat; and here, melted bottles.
I'd read the
story of Sadako
in 1997, and found cranes she'd folded among the displays.
These were small, the size of a coin -- said she often used
wrapping paper since real origami paper was so scarce.
I hadn't heard they were in the museum, but it makes sense.
The most horrifying things on display (to me) were any
number of aftermath descriptins and drawings by survivors,
as well as some photos of the mushroom cloud, taken from
below. An interesting counterpoint to the big picture was
how the museum is in two buildings, connected by a flying
bridge, lined with windows -- for some reason, walking
through it, I was suddenly reminded of being inside the
memorial
structure atop the Arizona, in Pearl Harbor -- physically
similar structures, brackets to America's role in the great Pacific War.
After passing through the tunnel, one reaches the exhibit
I've heard the most about. There weren't as many of these
gruesome wax figures of victims with melting flesh as
I was expecting -- just one diorama, and my apologies,
the picture isn't very good, the lighting was dim;
flickering, red illumination.
Just opposite was this full-scale 'Little Boy' model, over a display
detailing how it worked, with specifications.
Back outside, on the nearby bridge, youthful, sincere
Japanese were playing guitars and singing songs of peace.
Across the way I found this angel, draped with
thousands of origami cranes.
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