November 1 Tsumago
Back to Tokyo, and on to a vintage village
In the morning I must've gotten up earlier
than expected, since the members of my host
family were all eating breakfast in the kitchen,
while a separate place was set for me at
the dining room table. This made me feel
weird; when Noriko brought out my hot
dish of Western breakfast (Japanese would've
been fine with me) the situation reminded
of the family-run B&B I stayed at near
The Village in 1977, in Penrhyndeudraeth,
Wales. Unlike then, when I turned on the
television to the astonishment of my hosts,
and just got a test pattern (like they knew
would happen); here, Noriko turned on the
TV and then Hiroshi bustled in to insert
a videotape (to record something, the
news?) Hiroshi and his daughter
Yuko eventually said good-byes, and Noriko
drove them off to the station to catch
their crowded trains to work. This was my
chance to explore their house, but I played
model guest and stayed put, watching the
television.
Noriko returned eventually, exclaiming
about how bad the rain was making
the traffic - she'd originally wanted to
show me the Sugimoto-dera (oldest Kamakura
temple) or perhaps the Hokoku-ji Shrine (with
its bamboo forest) or maybe the Kencho-ji - I
forget exactly which, but it was just too
rainy; instead I said it was fine
if she could just drop me at the station.
After giving me some satsuma tangerines for the
ride, we were off, and traffic was
crawling - her plan was to go all the way
to the JR station but as were driving along
beneath the monorail I rode in
1992, my excitement grew and I said here
would be fine, so after I gave her a
temari ball she let me out at the Shonan Moshiya
station - a couple stops later I was in Ofuna,
where I soon boarded an express back to Tokyo.
There I requested a reservation on the newest
shinkansen, the Asama line to
Nagano, built for the recent winter olympics. This
request turned out to be quite unnecessary,
but even though my railpass was limited to second
class the reservation was in one of the first
class cars! With super-express swiftness I shot
through the rainy countryside, eating the
bento lunch I'd purchased in Tokyo station.
Wasn't in Nagano long, just a few minutes really,
then onto another express to Matsumoto, the place
to which I'd return in a couple days, to experience
the castle festival celebrating the November
3rd Culture Day holiday.
In Matsumoto I caught a local to Shiojiro,
where I had to buy a ticket on to Nagiso since
my railpass was no longer valid; I'd crossed
the line and was outside JR East
territory. Now I was truly in the boondocks, the
destination: one of these three little post
towns along the Nakesendo Road which are
preserved like things were a hundred years ago.
By the time I arrived in Nagiso it was night;
there I caught a bus for the final few kilometers
into Tsumago. It dropped me on the outskirts,
as motor vehicles are not allowed in the center
of the village. All the shops were closed up
and the only illumination were the occasional
streetlight and the house-signs - cubes of frosted
glass, illuminated from within by single incandescent
lamps, and marked with squiggly old kanji.
I felt a bit like a character in a samurai film,
walking through this dimly lit town of wooden
buildings.
In addition to other sources,
this
page had provided me with needed background on these
environs, and author Randy recommended staying where
he did, at the "venerable"
Matsushiro-ya* - but
this morning Noriko had called a relation who
lives in this region and the word was, that inn
was expensive and too shabby, I should instead stay
next door - and Noriko had rung up the place next
door, Shimo Saga-ya, so I was expected. Finding
it on this dark night was a challenge, but somehow
I was able, with aid of the posted maps and my
deciphering of the kanji illuminations, to appear
at the Matsushiro-ya door, and the proprietress of
that ryokan took me down the adjacent little
alley to Shimo Sagaya's door, which slid open and
I was welcomed inside by my own hostess.
At ryokans, guests are typically served both dinner
and breakfast, and they're lavish meals with lots
of little dishes. My place was already set in
the teeny dining room, it seems I was the only
lodger that night (and they only had capacity
for a few, anyway). Afterwards, another ofuru;
followed by lounging around on the new-smelling
tatami-mat floor of my small room, wearing this
night's yukata. I was thankful there were
no other guests - the drawback of Traditional
Japanese (as opposed to the Western) lodgings is
those paper-thin shoji walls: stylish, sure;
but you can hear everything happening in the adjacent
rooms. All I heard was the rain and the stream
rushing past outside. My only complaint was the
harsh-yet-efficient light from the new fluorescent
bulbs in the old fixtures - along with all the other
preservationist regulation keeping this town intact,
incandescents really should be required inside also.
Note:
* Compare the old
charcoal drawing of the place
he
provides (by Akira Sato) with the
photo I took.
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