October 31 Kamakura
Riding the Rails - Eno-den and the Daibutsu
Now things become more interesting, as I get
away from Tokyo. I came prepared - a month
before departure I purchased a JR East
railpass
at the Santa Clara branch of the Japan Travel
Bureau (JTB), down there near Great America
practically across the street from where I spent
those three dreary months at Lockheed, when I
first moved to the
Valley of Heart's Delight. (MVS mainframes, QA
stuff - the worst. But that was years ago, now.)
Like in Europe, the railpass makes
train travel a breeze, since you can bypass the
ticket counter, and here they can be an
incredible deal - but in Japan things are a little
more problematic because the stations lack those
yellow posters listing all the trains, their type,
departure times and destinations. Bigger Japanese
stations do have an assist - over the turnstiles
are marquee-style boards showing the next few
departures; but only in the biggest stations do
these destinations alternate between kanji
(characters) and romanji (letters spelling
out the names). But that's not so tough for me;
kanji is my strength since I've been studying
them on & off for years (unlike the
spoken language, an inadequacy I really must
address before my next trip). During my
second trip I had a
general JR pass, the cheapest of those last a week
and cost a little over $300 now; but since Kyoto
wasn't on my agenda this time that was unnecessary
and just in time I discovered that JR East has their
own pass. (JR
is actually a consortium of six regional
railways -= there's also JR Kyushu,
JR Shikoku, JR Hokkaido, etc.) The
low-end East pass only lasts five days but is
priced at under $200, the extra days would've
been fun but as it was everything worked out fine.
So this morning I checked out of the Fukudaya and
walked down the hill to Shibuya station, pausing
for a breakfast of a can of hot coffee from a vending
machine and a pastry from a bakery. After hanging
around a bit, the right office-bureau opened, where
my voucher was converted into the actual
pass - shortly thereafter I was riding a limited
express along the ancient Tokaido
Road,*
which connected Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto. At
Fujisawa, past Yokohama, I called up my co-worker's
brother, the venerable Hiroshi-san, and gave him
my position at the
terminus
of the Enoshima Electric Railway, or the "Eno-den" - my
plan was to ride ahead on this train and then
have him pick me up at Ofuna where we'd originally
agreed to rendezvous, but he'd have none of
it - insisted on fetching me right from there. So
I waited in front of the adjacent Odakyu department
store for about forty-five minutes, watching the
trains roll into and out of the station on the
single track.
A little kiosk-stand there was selling Eno-den
souvenirs - everything imprinted with pictures of
this train, which runs along the coast with views of
Enoshima Island and (on clear days) Mount Fuji. It's
beloved, I suppose, for its scenic route and the
classic rolling stock still in use, especially
the rounded mid-century-vintage green and yellow
cars. Also, if you want to take a train to the
Great Buddha that's your only option. Since it's
a private railway my JR pass would not be valid;
but as it turned out, my host would not allow me to
pay for my ticket anyway.
After a clarifying chat with a couple of confused
schoolteachers from Annapolis, this semi-flustered,
wizened little native wearing a baseball cap
approached and we introduced ourselves, then went
out to his car, waiting in a no-parking zone with
his wife at the wheel. Then his son showed up and
we were off. Traffic was lousy (since it was the
weekend) and the Mrs. wanted to do stuff other than
sight-see, so when they came to the realization
their crazy foreign charge actually wanted
to ride the train she dropped us off at the station
and we rode on to
Hase.
Here I disembarked with Hiroshi and his son Tetsushi.
They took me up a hill to the nearby Hasedera
Temple, a big complex of several buildings and
gardens overlooking the bay. Inside a big hall was
a large, multi-headed, gilded statue of the
Kannon god; I remember also being taken through
some cramped caverns where religious images had
been hewn into the rock walls a long time ago.
Then we walked across town to the Daibutsu or
Great Buddha, the Japanese variant of
Germany's Queen Bavaria in Munich or our own
Statue of Liberty, but built centuries before
those by methods which are now obscure. I learned
that you can also get inside this one, there's a
little door 'round back. Tetsushi took this picture
of his father and me. We walked back into town and
paused at a teeny little tea-shop, the sort of place
I usually shy away from because it's intimidating,
pushing aside the noren curtains and entering
when you're not exactly sure what happens inside,
if it's even an eating place, the signs are so
discrete. Inside were several small groups of people
sitting around several little tables, an old-fashioned
radio playing amidst other Meiji-era decor, and
Hiroshi-san ordered for all of us while his son
lit a cigarette and offered his dad one, but not
me. (Guess he could tell I was nominally a non-smoker
although we discussed menthol right then and later
talked about quitting, how it was easier in the
California culture but difficult in his own.) His
father was impressed with my tea-knowledge and we had
the special sencha (made with powdered green tea, as
served in the tea ceremony) when I said I'd never
had any. Also we had a dessert served in ice cream
sundae-style dishes although the confections
were gelatinous and flavored with red beans, the
traditional Japanese sweetener.
Out on the street we passed a bamboo and basket shop
and I got the answer to something which has been
bugging me for a while - one of those flat-coned
hats was in the display and I asked what they
call it, described how they're known as "coolie
hats" in my culture (or even "chinaman hat")
but that sounds so derogatory, there must be
a more politically correct term, and
here it is: the Japanese word is gasa.
(Hiroshi-san had to muse a bit before he
remembered this.)
Back to the Eno-den, which we rode on to
Kamakura, the end of the line. Although it was
dusk they took me down the long Dankazura (a
pedestrian-only promenade surmounted by
three torii gates) leading up to
the Tsurugaoke-Hachiman-Gu (the Hachiman
Shrine). My hosts said the trees
bordering this boulevard were cherry trees,
that these sakura were very beautiful
in the spring. (I described those in my
hometown of Washington, DC; how they'd been
attacked by beavers last spring and how new,
replacement trees are now being grown
genetically identical to the original
pre-war gift-trees from Japan; from cuttings,
rather than just replacing them with commercial
cherry trees.) As we ascended the long flight of
steps up to the main shrine building, a wedding
party in traditional garb passed us on their way
down. We walked back along the Komachi-dori
shopping street which runs parallel to the
Dankazura - this I found much more
interesting even as they subtly hurried me along
(think they were getting hungry). Near the station,
we caught a cab back to their home, the final
kilometer winding up a hill past suburban houses,
their details hidden in the darkness. My
curiosity very high at this point - would the
inside be a wonderland of sliding shoji
doors, warm paper lanterns and tatami mats?
As it turned out, no - not a traditional room
anywhere in the house, regular (Western) tables
and chairs everywhere, although I did have to
remove my shoes at the threshold, as expected.
(There may have been more traditional decor
upstairs, but I wasn't invited up into that
inner sanctum.)
Dinner was prepared by Noriko, the charming lady of the
house. It included sashimi (toro tuna - I really
was an honored guest), red wine (and daughter Yuko's
favorite beer, Yebisu), delicious soup with boiled
chicken, something with chunks of cold pumpkin (as
Noriko pointed out, an acknowledgement of
Halloween - the only one I noticed all day). Although
they all spoke understandable English, Yuko got out
the electronic Japanese/English dictionary unit to
assist with conversational subtleties - one of those
little hand-helds which resemble a pocket calculator.
After dinner, the inevitable photo session,
and then Tetsushi left for his Yokohama apartment;
but just as he departed he gave me a very nice pen,
its shaft made of a fine wood - his company manufactures
the balls in ballpoints. After some delicate quizzing
by Noriko, assured that I knew the rules of the Japanese
ofuru, I was allowed to use the bath first.
While inside the small room I discovered that although
their toilet did not have the one of the new
spray attachments, the seat was covered with plush and
heated! When I came out, Hiroshi went in,
and more tea was served - chilled moogy cha, made
with barley - Yuko said Japanese drink tea
like water.
Eventually I fell to sleep in the spare room,
my bed a futon on the floor. The only furnishings
of note in there were a wooden shelving unit along
one wall, loaded with chachkas, most rather dark
and ancient except for a little model of the Eno-den.
Note:
* Ukiyo-e
fans are familiar with the 53 Stations thereof,
because of the famous print series by Hiroshige;
on-line links are available at the
Floating
World of Cyberspace - scroll down to
Hiroshige to reach them.
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