Back for a week in February, just Tokyo. During this
trip I kept notes in two places, and was unable (or
just too lazy) to consolidate them.
Out over the Pacific, afternoon breakfast, final
meal on the flight: Tes, air travel is wonderful,
but is there anything more degrading in modern
life than the meals? We bend our heads and eat
the mystery food mixtures from the little containers
on the tray, thinking thoughts far and away from
Later, back at the Sumisho Hotel. Was reading
Capote at the nearby 100-yen kaiten sushi and
a fellow gaijin tried to make contact - "Interesting
place." I shoulda responded with more'n a nod.
Back inside the Sumisho at Ningyo-cho -- had mechanical
sushi at the place I couldn't re-find last time -- cheap,
should go back.
Down inside Ginza station. Poster:
Good Manners are more attractive
than your makeup will make you
Walking down Chuo-dori at evening, "Batman
Beyond" anime on the big screen at the
Warner Bros store. Big Buddhist shrine in
Tsukiji after great sushi breakfast, then
in the evening una-don at Shimbashi.
Day began promisingly at Tsukiji, then seemed to
deteriorate, @ TIC, with phone, and across the
river (no earthquake museum) but after retracing
my steps, through Sendagi (Asakura Choso Museum
this time open) things clicked back into play
with great stroll down Ginza with eel dinner
From the sublime to the ridiculous,
breakfast this morning at Yoshinoya, replete with
natto and raw egg. Gate clarification at Asakusa,
though. Later, inside HMV and HUB and 'sghetti
at Ducky Duck.
Doesn't seem like much was accomplished today,
as I sit wearing Fukudaya yukata and think of
the morning's Yoshinoya/Mr Donut breakfast,
but I did shop at Loft, and Muji (involuntary
in-store comment, "look at all this great
shit!") ate a MOS burger and tarako 'sghetti,
even bought a book at Good Day in Ebisu and
peered into the lobby of Mr Jeekins. Just
wish my head wasn't so congested.
A new "wow" -- they stop talking, just music,
late night TV and during the wee hours.
The wee hours, jet-lagged and watching the
telly: a voice-over-free Blackpool travelog.
They have double-decker trams too - who knew?
Another day which seemed to start poorly, but
got better and better, especially after lunch,
after the Temari Museum. I explored Daikanyama,
the new town on the Toyoko line, one stop after
Ikejiri-Ohashi. Then the sento after sushi at
Sushi-Daidokoya, currently my favorite
mechanical in Shibuya - it's on the way, up
More congestion, runny nose at Denny's.
Shibuya shopping @ Tokyu Hands, Fujita
Vente history @ Yoyogi, lunch at the
cynical Sato's counter, then out to
Setagaya for the Temari Museum at
Kominoge, after pause at Tower to read
Friends of the Swastika,
then returned via Nakameguro (Y100 store)
and Daikonyama (trendy new mall with
lights, then pause at Sushi-Daidodokaya
and finally the sento down the hill (other
side) from Hotel Fukudaya. URL of note:
During the day, out
to Saitama for the museum. Later, on TV,
transnational star of 1982's
"Revenge of the Ninja." The audience, all the
girls wearing consecutive interstate numbers, just
touching him as he passed slowly by.
Proletarian Yoshinoya cho-shoku, Ikebukuro
Toyota AmLux so what, brief Omiya walkabout,
John Lennon Museum, Shinjuku Hilton cake
buffet pig-out, view from Metro Gov't (city
hall) tower, more Shinjuku walking.
Shinjuku, morning in the Tateshina,
listening to the English AM 812 besthitsvariety.com,
which greeted me with Garrison when I checked in
yesterday. Talked to Mar, and found the Gibson!
Later, in the Nezu ryokan.
Morning, even more Shinjuku walking, located
the Shwier and it's still the great deal, and
then after luggage stow over the Takashimya
Times Square for Tokyu Hands shopping. Over
to Takadanobaba for the bookstore (where I
interviewed an English teacher about job
satisfaction), wandered through Big Box,
then had a pizza in a restaurant
which played only Beatle songs in continuous
random rotation. Back in Shinjuku, back to
Yanesen for Yamanaka Ryokan, swell lodgings,
swell neighborhood, there's even a sento down
the street. |
SunKus and the "Just Spot" kombini
(c-store) with its 'thumbs up' logo (in Ueno).
Lounged around the ryokan's shoji room until
almost checkout time, eating kiwis and
finishing the Truman Capote. Thence off to Ueno,
walking along the park's perimeter, then
entering at a shrine or temple where I scored
a traffic safety charm. After stowing the bag,
rode down to Shimbashi for to ride the new
Yurikamone line out to the reclaimed land
of Ariake. Delicious tonkatsu lunch at the
Tokyo Fashion Town (where I caught the silly
hourly fountain show that evening) and internet
access (w/ Netscape 6) at the Telecom Center
Bldg. Back into town for another stroll the
length of the Ginza, beginning with the
traditional visit to Maruzen bookstore.
Strange dreams this morning, dreams with
David, and another involving a horrid little
Spanish child, induced no doubt by glimpses of the
Brazillian "Central Station" on the television
last night. I've convinced myself a return to Kappabashi's
required, for the cast-iron egg crate (Takoyaki cooker).